Cypress Perfume — the green wood of the Mediterranean

Cypress in perfumery: the dry, resinous woody note of the Mediterranean

Portrait of cypress: a Mediterranean tree

The evergreen cypress, Cupressus sempervirens, has shaped the landscapes of Tuscany, Provence and Greece since Antiquity. Its rot-proof wood was used for sarcophagi and temple doors; its resin went into fumigations. Perfumery uses not the wood but the leafy twigs and cones, steam-distilled to yield a clear, dry essence. Production comes mainly from around the Mediterranean, France, Spain, Morocco and Crete, and quality varies a great deal with the time of harvest. It is a discreet material, rarely highlighted on a fragrance pyramid, but very useful to perfumers: it adds verticality without weighing things down and dries out woody accords that are too comfortable.

What does cypress smell like?

Cypress smells of dry green rather than sappy green: crushed needles, warm bark, resin, with a peppery, turpentine-like edge. A smoky facet soon appears, close to cold incense, then a slightly balsamic, mineral base that evokes stone in the shade. Unlike cedar, which is softer and more pencil-shaving-like, cypress stays austere and a little bitter. On the skin, it almost never dominates: it lasts an hour or two in full light, then melts into the woods and the vetiver of the base, whose dryness it extends. Its sillage is clean, never overpowering.

Cypress perfumes at Soleil d'Or

Original Vétiver by Creed uses cypress to draw its vetiver towards green and the open air. Pour Un Homme Le Soir by Caron places it beneath lavender and vanilla, where it brings the shade a very soft accord needs. At Atelier des Ors, Cuir Sacré uses it to dry out leather and incense, while Riviera Lazuli pulls it towards Mediterranean light. La Liturgie des Heures sets it in a church register, between resin and cold stone, and PEGASUS keeps a discreet trace of it beneath almond and vanilla. The selection also includes creations signed by Marie Salamagne and Annick Goutal.

Accords and families: where is cypress found?

Cypress is a binder. It pairs first with aromatic materials, lavender, rosemary and sage, whose dryness it extends, then with resins and woods: sandalwood softens it, vetiver anchors it in the earth. It also turns up in classic fougères, in smoky compositions where it accompanies incense, and in leather accords, from which it removes all heaviness. Alongside white flowers, it plays the unexpected role of a bitter counterpoint: a few drops are enough to stop a tuberose turning creamy. Finally, in citrus compositions, it acts as a hinge between the top-note zests and the base woods.

Who is cypress for, and when to wear it?

Cypress reads as neither masculine nor feminine. Long confined to fougères and so-called men's eaux, it now appears in floral and leather compositions worn by anyone. Its dry, shaded register is particularly suited to autumn and spring, to clear, cool days, and to daytime moments: the office, a walk, the city. Warm skin draws a rounder resin from it; cool skin, an almost mineral verticality. It is a note for those who like restrained, slightly reserved perfumes that announce nothing in advance. In the evening, choose it backed by an amber or leather base to gain presence.

How to choose your cypress perfume?

Two directions are open to you. Fresh, luminous cypress, turned towards the sea and the garrigue: Original Vétiver or Riviera Lazuli give a fair idea of it. Dark, resinous cypress, backed by incense and leather: Cuir Sacré shows this path. As the note plays in the background, judge it over time rather than on the first spray. The made-to-measure discovery box brings together five hand-composed 2 mL samples: it is the best way to compare these registers at home, at different times of day. And if you are passing through Lille, our advisers will let you smell the essence on its own before finding it in the compositions.

Cypress at Soleil d'Or, a Lille perfumery since 1953

Founded in 1953 by Jeanne Muyllaert on Lille's Grand'Place, Soleil d'Or is an independent perfumery passed down from generation to generation. Hubert Maës (third generation) made it a reference for niche perfumery; today his daughters Victorine and Apolline Maës (fourth generation) uphold that standard at 22 rue de la Clef, Lille (59800). Our team will let you smell the cypress perfumes in our catalogue, with expert advice and guided trials, and can guide you further with our guide to fragrance families.

Delivery & free in-store collection in Lille

Within mainland France, Colissimo delivery is free from €49 to a pickup point and from €59 to your door. Within Europe, it is free from €99 to a pickup point and from €149 to your door, depending on the destination; we also ship worldwide. Live in Lille or the surrounding area? Free in-store collection at 22 rue de la Clef is the fastest and most economical option. Full terms on our shipping page.